Major Ports of Call

• Amsterdam
• Berlin
• Budapest
• Cairo
• Cologne
• Luxor
• Paris
• Porto
• Prague
• Venice
• Vienna

Amsterdam

Cosmopolitan Amsterdam, with its laid-back atmosphere, its centuries-old canals, flower markets and ubiquitous bicycles, is one of Europe’s most enjoyable destinations, unique in many ways – not least for its balance of past and present. Perhaps no community has ever had such a glorious explosion of wealth and culture as Amsterdam during the 17th century, the city’s Golden Age, yet this is a place that has always looked forward rather than back. The modern city is exuberant, with a tremendous range of cultural life from world-class art galleries to wacky street theatre.

Orientation

Most river cruise vessels dock close to the city centre, between the Centraal railway station at the Passagiers Terminal (up to about 800 yards to the east of the station).

Getting Around

The centre of Amsterdam is compact, and most places can easily be reached on foot. When crossing the road, watch out for bicycles, which can appear out of nowhere. Trams and taxis are plentiful. Canal tours are an essential part of any visit to the city; there are several companies in front of Centraal Station, with departures from here, along Rokin, by the Rijksmuseum and Heineken Brewery further south.

Business Hours

Shops open 8.30 or 9am–6pm, Mon–Fri. Most shops close at 5pm on Saturday. Late-night shopping is Thursday until 9pm. Most banks and government offices are open Mon–Fri 9am–5pm.

Top City Sights

Canal Ring

Amsterdam’s horseshoe-shaped network of canals is the city’s most distinctive feature and a must-see for visitors – lined with tall, elegant mansions from the 17th and 18th centuries. The canal ring (grachtengordel) encompassing the three parallel waterways of Herengracht, Keizersgracht and Prinsengracht is the most scenic stretch.

Maritime Museum

Documenting and celebrating Amsterdam’s illustrious maritime history, the Maritime Museum (Scheepvaart­museum; open Tues–Sun 10am–5pm, daily during school holidays) assembles some fascinating material and is recommended.

RIjksmuseum

Somewhat diminished by major renovation work which will continue until 2008, Amsterdam’s most famous art gallery is still worth a few hours of your time. Rembrandt’s group portrait, The Night Watch is the most famous work of the fabulous collection, which includes a comprehensive range of 15th-century Dutch art. Open daily 10am–6pm.
DE looier antiques market A vast indoor antiques market (open daily except Friday) selling anything from memorabilia to handmade pottery, and old dolls and toys.

Koninklijk Paleis

Dominating Dam Square in the heart of Amsterdam is the 17th-century Koninklijk Paleis (Royal Palace; hours vary according to royal engagements, but mostly open daily 11am–5pm in summer, Tues–Thur 12.30–5pm in winter). The rather heavy exterior belies an elegant series of rooms inside with some notable works of art. The square itself is a hub of activity and meeting point.

Van Gogh Museum

The world’s largest permanent collection features a selection of paintings by Van Gogh hung in chronological, and to a degree, thematic order – though the location of individual works may change from time to time. Open daily 10am–6pm, Fri until 9pm.
Anne Frank House has become a place of pilgrimage. A staircase leads into the backrooms where Otto Frank, his family and friends hid for two fraught years, from 1942 until August 1944. The house is a monument to all the victims of Fascism and anti-Semitism. Ope

Berlin

Berlin is an exciting place to visit. In recent years, the newly revived capital has expanded at a rapid pace, and the city almost feels like a living art gallery. Signs of change are everywhere, but despite its stone, steel and glass, Berlin is the greenest metropolis in Europe, with more than 40 percent of its area covered by lakes and rivers, parkland and woods. It is also possible to escape the bustle very quickly; the city has a fine recreational zone right on its doorstep.

Orientation

Cruises which visit Berlin either sail up the Havel as far as Potsdam, or stop at Magdeburg on the Elbe and take passengers to the capital by coach.

Getting Around

The quickest way of getting around this large, sprawling city is by the integrated public-transport system (bvg). An interconnected three-zone system (A, B, and C) requires only one ticket and allows you to use the bus, underground (U-Bahn), overground rail (S-Bahn) and tram. Free coloured maps of Berlin’s Schnellbahnnetz (the entire network of S-Bahn, U-Bahn and mainline trains) are obtained from kiosks on station platforms. Tickets are available from the orange-coloured machines at the entrances to all U- and S- Bahn stations. Public transport runs from 4.30am to 12.30am. The flat terrain and network of bicycle paths make cycling around the city a pleasure, and there are numerous bicycle-hire outlets.

Business Hours

Shops in Berlin are generally open Mon–Sat from 8 or 9am until 6 or 6.30pm, but some close earlier on Saturdays. Shopping malls are open Mon–Sat from 9 or 10am until 8pm. Most are closed on Sundays. Banks open Mon–Fri 9am–4pm.

Excursions

Schloss Sanssouci (Potsdam) was commissioned by Frederick the Great and designed­ by von Knobelsdorff in 1744. Open Tues–Sun 9am–5pm, 4pm in winter. Take a Regional Express train from Bahnhof Zoo to Potsdam Hauptbahnhof.

Top City Sights

Brandenburg Gate

The Brandenburg Gate has played varying roles in the history of Berlin. Napoleon marched through here on his triumphant way to Russia, and when the Berlin Wall fell in 1989, the gates came to symbolise freedom and unity. The sandstone structure is based on the gateway to the Acropolis in Athens.

Checkpoint Charlie

From 1961 until 1990, Checkpoint Charlie was the only crossing point between East and West Berlin. Today the former border crossing has become a shrine to the Berlin Wall’s memory. Nothing remains of the actual military installation today, although a small guardhouse (pictured) was rebuilt in the middle of the street. For more information on the general history of the Wall, visit the nearby Museum Haus am Checkpoint Charlie 5 (open daily 9am–10pm) at Friedrichstrasse 44.

Reichstag building

The Reichstag, restored to prominence with the return of the goverment to Berlin in 1999 and crowned by a spectacular glass dome designed by Sir Norman Foster, was originally built in the late 19th century in Italian Renaissance style. A broad spiral ramp enables visitors to watch parliamentary proceedings from above. Open daily 8am–midnight.

Museum Island

Between the River Spree and Kupfergraben lies Museum Island, which ranks as one of the world’s finest museum complexes and is a unesco World Heritage Site. The stunning diversity of displays includes everything from ancient archaeological artefacts to early 20th-century German and European art. All five museums are open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–10pm.

Kurfürstendamm

Inspired by the Champs-Elysées in Paris, Ku’damm (as it’s usually known) is the most popular boulevard in Berlin, and is flanked by a series of exclusive hotels, department stores and cafés. In the 1920s it became the meeting-place for Berlin’s intellectuals.

Budapest

There is something satisfying about Budapest which goes beyond the attractions of its fabulous, romantic riverine setting. It is the cultural heart of the nation and a city of international standing, yet it still possesses some of its late 19th-century flair and romance. Nostalgia can be found in the sumptuous spas offering the simple pleasure of bathing in thermal waters, and in the grand old coffee houses, still frequented by artists of all backgrounds and interests. As the grime of 40 years of neglect is removed from one monument after another, the great city of former days continues to re-emerge.

Orientation

Budapest is the perfect destination for river cruises, because the Danube flows right through the heart of the city, and river cruise vessels subsequently dock in a superbly convenient (and also picturesque) location. This is a major river port, so the exact location of your dock could be anywhere between Elizabeth (Erzsébet híd) and Freedom (Szabadság híd) bridges, but always on the Pest (east) side.

Getting Around

Public transport in Budapest is efficient and cheap. An integrated network of trams and buses, the underground and suburban railway provide access to all parts of the city, but all forms of transport shut down at 11.30pm.

Business Hours

Most shops and department stores open Mon–Fri 10am–6pm and Sat 9am–1pm. Shops stay open until 8pm on Thursday. Some of the new hypermarkets are open 24 hours.

Excursions

A short distance upstream from Budapest, the Danube dramatically alters its easterly course for a southern tack. The name of this region is the Danube Bend and there are delightful historic towns to explore. In summer, boats make a five-hour journey from Budapest to Esztergom, stopping en route at Szentendre and Visegrád. An alternative is a 25-minute helicopter trip over the area.

Top City Sights

Parliament building

Strongly reminiscent of the Palace of Westminster in London, the Parliament Building (Országház) is one of Budapest’s most famous sights. There are guided tours in English at 10am, noon, 2pm and 5pm. The neo-Gothic pile, which was completed in 1902, extends along the Danube for some 268 metres (292 yards).

Chain Bridge

When it was completed in 1849, the Chain Bridge (Széchenyi Lánchíd) linked the two halves of the city, Buda and Pest, for the first time (there are now eight Danube bridges in the Hungarian capital, as well as more on the outskirts). Count Istvan Széchenyi, the 19th-century reformer and innovator, brought in engineers from Great Britain to construct the graceful span, which is beautifully floodlit at night.

Gellért Hill

Rising steeply from the Buda riverfront, the craggy, wooded heights of Gellért Hill (Gellért hegy) can be seen from almost anywhere in the city (not least from the river cruise vessel dock). Naturally, the views are tremendous, extending as far as the distant Mátra mountains on the Slovak border on a clear day.

Heroes’ Square

At the end of Andrassy utca, one of Pest’s major thoroughfares, is the wide open space of Heroes’ Square (Hösök tere), with its 36-metre (118-ft) Millennium Monument, erected in 1896 to mark 1,000 years of the Magyar state. The square is flanked by the Palace of Art and Museum of Fine Arts (see right), and behind the former is the world’s largest hourglass, unveiled in May 2004 to mark Hungary’s admission into the European Union. Some 8 metres (26 ft)?in diameter, the structure ‘turns’ once a year to send the sand running anew.

Váci utca

Long, narrow and pedestrianised for much of its length, Váci utca (pronounced vah-tsee ooh-tsa) is a busy and fashionable shopping street which also flaunts a range of bars, cafés and restaurants. At its northern end is the square of Vörösmarty tér. At No. 7 is one of the city’s main meeting places and home to Gerbeaud, doyen of the city’s prosperous café society since 1884 and a major tourist attraction in itself.

Museum of Fine Arts

Hungary’s pre-eminent art gallery, the Museum of Fine Arts (Szépmüvészeti Múzeum; open Tues–Sun 10am–5.30pm) has a huge collection. The main focus is European art from 1300–1800, notably works by the Spanish school including El Greco, Goya and Velázquez.

Mátyás Church

The focal point of the old town of Buda, high above the river, the Mátyás Church (Mátyás Templom; open daily 6am–8pm; free; exhibition rooms open daily 9.30am–5.30pm) is named after Hungary’s most popular medieval king, Mátyás Corvinus Hunyadi (1458–90). The Habsburg emperor Franz Josef I was crowned king of Hungary here in 1867. The unusual geometric patterns on the roof, the stained-glass windows and other details date from the 19th century, but parts of the building are far older. Outside the church in Trinity Square (Szentháromság tér) is the mighty equestrian statue of St Stephen.

Fisherman’s Bastion

Overlooking the Danube and just in front of the Mátyás Church, the fairy-tale spires and turrets of the Fisherman’s Bastion (Halászbástya) afford the classic view of Budapest (see the main picture on previous page). Built onto the castle walls in the early 20th century purely for ornamental reasons, the monument’s name is a reference to the fishermen who heroically defended the ramparts here against invaders in the 18th century.

The Hungarian National Museum

The large Hungarian National Museum (Magyar Nemzeti múzeum; open Dec–Mar 10am–5pm; mid-Mar–Nov Tues–Sun 10am–6pm) is the most important museum in the city. St Stephen’s Crown, the symbol of Hungarian sovereignty, was returned here in 1978, having been stolen by the Wehrmacht in World War II. Inside, amid monumental architectural and ornamental details, the whole story of Hungary unfolds – from prehistory right up to the 21st century. On display are prehistoric remains, ancient jewellery and tools, Roman mosaics, a 17th-century Turkish tent fitted out with grand carpets, and a Baroque library. There is some notable royal regalia, although the crown, orb, sceptre and sword have been moved to the Parliament Building.

Central Market Hall

A good place for souvenirs is the upstairs section of the cavernous Central Market Hall (Nagy Vásárcsarnok; open Mon 6am–5pm, Tues–Fri 6am–6pm, Sat 6am–2pm) at the Pest end of Freedom Bridge.

Gellért Baths

At the southern edge of Gellérthegy, the Gellért Baths (Gellért gyógyfürdö;  open Mon–Fri 6am–7pm; May–Sept weekends 6am–5pm) comprise medicinal baths as well as regular swimming pools, all decorated in opulent art nouveau style. The unisex indoor pool has a vaulted glass ceiling and Roman-style carved columns, while the thermal baths feature marble statues, fine mosaics and glazed tiles.

Cologne

Cologne is a busy modern city with a strong sense of historical heritage. Already established as an important centre in Roman times and resurgent in the Middle Ages, today’s city centre is still dominated by its glorious twin-towered Cathedral. Repeatedly bombed in World War II, Cologne preserved its historic street pattern when it was rebuilt and, although most buildings are modern, much of its traditional atmosphere survives. It’s a lively place, best experienced for those with stamina during the merry-making of Karneval time. The historic core of Cologne is large, bounded by the semi-circular boulevard of the Ring running along the line of the old city walls, although the epicentre of city life is to be found in the busy squares around the Cathedral.

Orientation

River cruise vessels dock conveniently at the Rheingarten / Frankenwerft on the left bank, right in the heart of things and close to the Cathedral.

Getting Around

Cologne’s excellent public transport system is made up of buses, trams and an S-Bahn and U-Bahn (underground) train system that covers the city and suburbs. Investing in a 24-hour ticket or three-day pass will make getting around less expensive. The city centre is easily explored on foot as many tourist areas are pedestrianised. With wide cycling paths flanking both sides of the river, hiring a bike is a good option.

Business Hours

Most shops in the city centre open between 9am and 10am, and close between 6pm and 8pm. On Thursday, shops are usually open until 7.30–8pm, Saturday until 4pm. Banks are open weekdays 9am–4pm but large cities are expanding their services. Most multi-storey car parks in the city centre are open 24 hours a day.

Top City Sights

Cologne Cathedral

With its awesome dimensions, the Cathedral (Dom; open daily 6am– 7.30pm) is the unmistakable landmark of the city, its two mighty towers the defining symbol of Cologne’s skyline. Construction began in 1248 and resumed in 1880, the final result remaining true to the original plans. A winding staircase of 509 steps leads to a viewing platform 95 metres (312ft) up in the south tower, where the view amply rewards your efforts.

Fischmarkt

There are few reminders today that the people of Cologne once bought and sold fish, but adjacent to the river is the city’s old harbour area and the former fish market. The late-Gothic buildings surrounding the square, now lined with bars and restaurants, have been preserved in their distinct, original style.

Museum rÖmisch-germanisches

Containing treasures from over 2,000 years ago after the Romans had established their camp of Colonia here, the museum was built over the famous Dionysus Mosaic. (Open Tues–Sun 10am–5pm.)

Wallraf-Richartz Museum

This is Cologne’s oldest museum (open Tues 10am–8pm, Wed–Fri 10am–6pm, Sat–Sun 11am–6pm), showing art from ad 1300–1900. The collection represents every period and school, from Dutch and Flemish masters to French Impressionists, with works by Dürer, Rembrandt, Rubens, Degas and Cézanne, among many others.

St Gereon Church Cupola

This medieval church is known for its intricate floor mosaic of David and Goliath and its unique decagon-shaped dome. It contains the tomb of St Gereon and other martyrs.

Paris

Paris is a city of landscapes, cut through the middle by the slowly meandering River Seine and edged with gentle hills. The Seine is the capital’s widest avenue; it is spanned by a total of 37 bridges which provide some of the loveliest views of Paris.
The fascination of the French capital is eternal and has long been a magnet to artists, writers, philosophers and composers. Its grand archi­tecture, fine cuisine and haute couture combine to make Paris one of the most glamorous European capitals.

Orientation

Embarkation point for river cruise vessels heading down the Seine to Rouen and the English Channel is at the Quai Grenelle, a short distance downriver from the Eiffel Tower (Métro Bir Hakeim).

Getting Around

The Paris Métro is quick and efficient. The first train runs at 5.30am, the last leaves around 12.30am. Those travelling a lot, but only in Paris for a few days, should buy a tourist ticket (Paris-Visite), valid for one, three or five days on the Métro, bus and rer and snfc trains. Buses run from 6.30am to 8.30pm, with some lines running until 12.30am.

Business Hours

Banks open Mon–Fri 9am–5.30pm and are closed Sat and Sun. Food shops, especially bakers, tend to open early. Most department stores open from 9am until 7pm or 8pm. Most shops close on Sunday, although bakers and patisseries are usually open in the morning.

Excursions

VERSAILLES Southwest of Paris lies the grand Palace of Versailles. Take the rer line C5 which will drop you a short distance away. Allow a full day to visit the chateau and its magnificent formal gardens. Open Oct–Apr Tues–Sun 9am– 5.30pm, May–Sept until 6.30pm.

Top City Sights

The Louvre

One of the largest palaces in Europe has assembled an incom­parable collection of Old Masters, sculptures and antiquities, housing 35,000 works. It has three wings, and the superb collections are divided up into seven different sections, each assigned its own colour to help you find your way around. Highlights include Leonardo da Vinci’s Mona Lisa. Open 9am–6pm Sat–Mon and Thur, until 9.45pm Wed and Fri.

Eiffel Tower

No visit to Paris would be complete without a trip to the Eiffel Tower, symbol of the city and of France herself. The metal giant looms over the area southwest of the centre. This icon of iron girders was chosen as the centrepiece to the World Fair of 1889. The first two floors are negotiated on foot or by lift, and then another lift goes up to the top. From here you will see a spectacular city panorama, best viewed one hour before sunset. Open Sept–­mid-June daily 9.30am–11pm, July–Aug until midnight.

Métro

Métro stations abound in the city, and some entrances retain their elegant art nouveau features, designed by the late-19th-century architect Hector Guimard. Two notable entrances that are still covered by his beautiful cast-iron-and-glass pavilions are at the stations of Porte Dauphine and Abbesses.
Place des Vosges Initially called the Place Royale, this enchanting 17th-century square, with a garden surrounded by 36 arcaded residences, was constructed by Henri IV as a showcase for his court. Today, this is the most beautiful square in Paris, and one of the capital’s most sought-after addresses. The arcades house chic boutiques and cafés, and in summer plays host to classical concerts.

Pompidou Centre

Made entirely of glass and surrounded by a white steel grid, the Pompidou Centre is the main showcase for modern and contemporary art in Paris. Now a much-loved city icon, the “inside-out” design was controversial when it was unveiled in 1977. Open Wed–Mon 11am–10pm.

Paris for Families

On the Right Bank the Jardin des Tuileries has pony rides, toy boats, cafés and children’s trampolines, and a giant Ferris wheel at Christmas and Easter-time. To the west of Paris is the Parisian’s favourite Sunday afternoon playground, the Bois de Boulogne, with woods and gardens, lakes and cycling tracks. On the Left Bank is the Jardin du Luxembourg, offering puppet shows and tennis courts.

sAcré coeur

Set in Monmartre is the virginal-white Basilique du Sacré Coeur. Perched on a hill, its Byzantine cupolas are as much a part of the city skyline as the Eiffel Tower; when the lights are turned on at night, the Sacré Coeur resembles a lit wedding cake. It can be reached by walking up 250 steps or by taking a funicular cable car. Open 6.45am–11pm (basilica), 9am–6pm (dome and crypt).

Musée D’Orsay

France’s national museum of 19th-century art is housed in the former Gare d’Orsay, an ornate Beaux-Arts train station, opened in 1900 to serve passengers to the World Fair. It’s an immensely dramatic setting, worth visiting for its own sake. But the museum’s contents are unmissable too: there is a major collection of paintings by the Impressionists, plus works by Delacroix and Ingres. Open Tues, Wed, Fri and Sat 10am–6pm, Thur 10am– 9.45pm; from 9am all days mid-June–mid-Sept.

Rodin Museum

Housed in the Hotel Biron is the Rodin Museum. Auguste Rodin came to live here in 1908 and stayed until his death in 1917. Here you can admire Rodin’s famous works, The Kiss and The Thinker, reputedly based on Dante contemplating the Inferno. Open Apr–Sept Tues–Sun 9.30am–5.45pm, Oct–Mar until 4.45pm.

Galerie ViVieNNe

The area between the Palais Royal and rue du Faubourg-Montmartre is laced with picturesque shopping arcades. In the early 19th century they became the places to discover the latest fashions. The best-preserved of these latter-day shopping malls is Galerie Vivienne, which has a fine mosaic floor, intricate brass lamps and graceful glass canopies.

Sainte-Chapelle

This is a masterpiece of Parisian Gothic Rayonnant architecture on the Île de la Cité. The beautiful 13th-century stained glass, magnificently displayed in 85 major panels, is without equal anywhere in Paris. Open daily summer 9.30am–6pm, winter 9am–5pm.

St-Germain

Here lies the historical heart of literary Paris. Its elegant streets house chic boutiques, yet it still retains a sense of animation, with crowded cafés spilling out onto the pavements. In the 1950s the area became a fertile breeding ground for literature and ideas. Existentialists, led by Jean-Paul Sartre and Albert Camus, lived in cheap hotels and gathered in local cafés such as Café Flore and Les Deux Magots.

Notre Dame

The cathedral’s position on the banks of the Seine is an unforgettable setting. Just as Gothic cathedrals were considered symbols of paradise, so the entrance façade, with its series of sculptures, was considered to be the gateway to heaven. The stories of the Bible are depicted in the portals, paintings and stained glass of the cathedral. The scale exceeded all earlier churches –  Paris became the capital only a few years before the foundation stone was laid, and the building was designed to reflect the power of the state and its church. Construction work on the cathedral began in 1163 and was finished around 1240. The exquisite 13th-century north and south rose windows are star attractions. Open daily 7.45am–6.45pm.

Fontaine de Stravinski modern art in Beauborg by Niki de Saint-Phalle and Jean Tinguely.

Porto

Once a river community, Porto is now a great commercial city, best known for its striking bridges, and the hub of the lucrative port wine trade. The ‘granite city’ is majestically sited on rocky cliffs overlooking the River Douro, which snakes through its terraced vineyards. The Douro valley is deep and narrow, the banks are high and steep and the old town small, with a confusing maze of streets at its heart. The ancient Ribeira water front district, the historic heart of Porto, was classified a unesco World Heritage Site in 1996.

Orientation

Most river cruise vessels moor at the Cais de Gaia on the Vila Nova de Gaia side of the Douro. This is a pleasant and convenient spot, with bars and cafés aplenty, and lies within easy reach of the medieval town.

Getting Around

Porto is well serviced by a network of buses and trams. A new light subway system, Porto Metro, was opened in 2002, and additional lines are under construction. The congested city centre is, however, best navigated on foot – although the hilly location can make it quite tiring.

Business Hours

Most shops in the city are open Mon–Fri 9am–1pm, and 3–7pm, Sat 9am–1pm. Almost all stay closed on Sundays, although some supermarkets are open Sunday and all day during the week.

Top City Sights

Ponte Dom Luis I (the iron bridge)

The impressive steel railway bridge looms over the vividly painted houses of the Ribeira district and spans the river to the south bank. Built in 1886, the bridge has two decks, the upper of which will carry the new metro line, and leads directly to port cellars in Vila Nova de Gaia (see page 225).

Sé (cathedral)

Crowning the highest point of the granite rock on which much of the old town is constructed is the Cathedral (open 9am–12.30pm, 2.30–6pm). It was built as a defensive fortification in the 12th century, and despite extensive alterations it has retained its fortress-like appearance. The highlight here is a fine baroque Altar of the Sacrament made from 800kg (1,760lbs) of embossed silver. The small Gothic cloister is decorated with azulejos (tiles) depicting the events from the Song of Solomon.

Torre dos Clérigos

The 18th-century Torre dos Clérigos (open daily) is the tallest granite tower in Portugal and has become the emblem of Porto. This was designed, along with its church, by Nicolau Nasoni. Unless you really have no head for heights it is worth climbing the endless spiral staircase with 225 or so steps for the dazzling view over the city, the river Douro and its estuary.

Santo Ildefonso Church

Built in the 18th century, the walls of the church are decorated with azulejos by Jorge Colaço depicting scenes from the life of St Ildefonso and allegories from the Eucharist.

Stock Exchange

On the site of a convent, which burnt down in 1832, is the Stock Exchange (open daily 9am–5.30pm) noted for its opulent neo-Moorish reception hall.

Vila Nova de Gaia wine lodges

Across the Ponte Dom Luis I, is an industrial zone with ceramic, glass, soap and other factories. But above all, Gaia is the true seat of the port wine industry, where most warehouses or lodges are to be found. There are about 80 port wine lodges: many of the larger ones welcome weekday visitors to tour the installations and taste their wines. Most prominent is Sandeman (open Mon–Fri 9am–1pm, 2–5pm), whose distinctive silhouette rises on the skyline.

Prague

Prague is one of Europe’s top tourist destinations, and it’s not hard to see why. The city today is a living documentary of its past, from its Romanesque beginnings to Gothic churches and monasteries, and fine Baroque palaces. More recent are magnificent Art Nouveau boulevards from the 19th century. Dozens of gilded spires and towers pierce the skyline, and the cobbled streets of the old town are packed with beautiful old houses, their façades ornately decorated.

Orientation

Prague has a magnificent setting, surrounded by wooded hills with the River Vltava running right through the heart of the city. To get to and from the centre of Prague, buses are provided from the river cruise vessels, which are usually berthed upstream in Ústi. Ústi itself is a busy industrial coal town on the Elbe, around 70km (43 miles) north of Prague and close to the confluence of the Elbe and the Vltava. Some vessels dock at Decin, a further 25km (14 miles) north of Ústi.

Getting Around

The various means of public transport are cheap, clean, efficient and well-integrated. The network includes trams and buses, the Metro and the funicular up the Petrín Hill.

Business Hours

Most shops in Prague are open weekdays 9am–6pm or 7pm, with smaller speciality stores typically open from 10am–6pm. City centre shops (especially around Wenceslas Square and Na príkope), department stores and malls are generally open 10am­–6pm on Saturdays, and some keep similar hours on Sundays, too. Smaller shops may close their doors for a couple of hours during lunchtime. Away from the city centre, most shops close at 1pm on Saturday and remain shut on Sunday.

Excursions

Some 30 km (19 miles) southwest of Prague is the biggest attraction in the region, Karlstejn Castle (open Mar–Jan Tues–Sun 9am–3pm, till 6pm in summer; ­conducted tours only). Some of the world’s finest frescos can be seen in the Chapel of the Holy Cross. The castle is reached by train from Prague’s Smíchov station (Metro line B), calling at Karlstejn station. From Karlstejn village the way to the castle leads steeply uphill for 1.5 km (1 mile). Horse-drawn carriages make the climb easier.

Top City Sights

Charles bridge (KarlUv most)

Slightly curved and spanning the Vltava River between the Old Town and the hill leading up to the castle, Charles Bridge is a Gothic masterpiece, with the added impact of some fine baroque sculpture. The first stone bridge was constructed here during the second half of the 12th century, in place of the wooden structure that was situated further to the north. The 30 statues adorning the bridge were added over a period of 250 years. The oldest and most significant statue is that of St John of Nepomuk, which was installed in 1683. Many are now replicas and the valuable originals can be seen in the Lapidarium of the National Museum.
The bridge is usually very crowded with sightseers; for a more atmospheric experience visit early in the morning or late at night.

Prague Castle (Hrad)

With its commanding position high above the river, the castle (open Apr–Oct daily 9am–5pm; Nov–Mar 9am–4pm) has been key to every epoch in the city’s history. It is the most extensive complex of buildings in the city, containing St Vitus Cathedral, the Royal Palace and many other monuments. It also serves as the seat of the president of the republic.

St Vitus Cathedral (KatedrÁla sv. vÍta)

Prague’s magnificent Gothic cathedral contains not only chapels and tombs, but also some fine stained glass, including the window designed by art nouveau artist Alphons Mucha (pictured below). The main attraction inside the cathedral is St Wenceslas’s Chapel, built by Petr Parler in which the national saint Wenceslas was interred. The saint’s sacred place is exceptionally ornate; walls are decorated with polished jasper, amethysts, agate and emeralds, as well as fine gilding and frescos.

Jewish quarter (Josefov)

The Jews of Prague suffered persecution from the Middle Ages, but found some freedom in their ghetto, now preserved as the Jewish Quarter and a memorial to their tenacity. The earliest mention of Prague’s Jewish community comes from a document by the Jewish merchant Abraham ben Jakob, dated 965. The ghetto, built in about 1100 and surrounded by a wall, soon became one of the largest Jewish communities in Europe. Major sites include the Old-New Synagogue (open Sun–Thur 9.30am–6pm in summer; Sun–Thur 9.30am–5pm and Fri 9.30am–2pm in winter), the oldest remaining synagogue in Europe in which services are still held. Nearby, the Old Jewish Cemetery is both a moving and fascinating place and was the last resting place for Jews between the 15th and 18th centuries. The number of graves is much greater than the 12,000 gravestones would suggest – this was the only place where Jews could be buried, so graves were layered one above the other. The Jewish community was destroyed in World War II, when thousands were sent to their deaths. Today there are around 1,500 people of Jewish descent in Prague.

Loreto Church

The Loreto Church (open Tues–Sun 9am–12.15pm, 1–4.30pm) is dedicated to the Virgin Mary and is the most famous pilgrimage church in Prague. The ornate facade and frescos in the cloister date from the 18th century. In the tower is a glockenspiel of 27 bells, which play a Czech hymn to the Virgin Mary every hour. The highlight is the Treasure Chamber which contains the remarkable Diamond Monstrance, a gift from a Bohemian nobleman.
It was made in 1699 by Baptist Kanischbauer and Matthias Stegner of Vienna and is studded with over 6,000 diamonds.

Old Town Square (staromestskÉ námestÍ)

Prague’s picturesque Old Town Square is the natural mid-point of the Old Town, and the heart of Prague. Memorial tablets on the Town Hall Tower are reminders of various important events that have taken place here over the centuries. In the 12th century the Old Town Square was a central market place and a major crossroads on central European merchant routes. Over the next few centuries many buildings of Romanesque, Baroque and Gothic styles were erected.
The Jan Hus monument in the centre of the square is in honour of the 15th-century reformer who stood up against the corrupt practices of the Catholic Church.

Tyn church

The landmark pointed towers of the Týn Church (open for mass Mon–Fri 9am–noon, 1–2pm) are one of the icons of Prague, looming 80 metres (260 ft) above the Old Town. The building was erected between 1365 and 1511, and features many noteworthy Bohemian Baroque works of art and the oldest baptismal font (1414) in Prague. To the right of the high altar is the tombstone of the famous Danish astronomer Tycho Brahe, who worked at the court of Rudolf ll. The church is a source of great national pride, and the facade, particularly when floodlit at night, is one of the finest sights in the Old Town.

Astronomical clock

The astronomical clock on the Town Hall Tower dates from 1410. It consists of three parts. In the middle is the actual clock, which also shows the movement of the sun and moon through the zodiac. Underneath is the calendar, with scenes from country life symbolising the 12 months of the year, painted by Josef Manés (these have now been replaced with replicas). The performance of the upper part of the clock is what draws the hordes of tourists. On the hour the figures play the same scene: Death rings the death knell and turns an hourglass upside down. The 12 Apostles proceed along the little windows which open before the chimes, and a cockerel flaps its wings and crows.

National gallery (NÁrodnÍ galerie)

In Sternberg Palace, within the castle complex, is the National Gallery (open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm), which houses a fine collection of European art. There are three levels; the ground floor houses German and Austrian art from the 15th to the 18th centuries; the first floor comprises the art of antiquity, icons and the art of the Netherlands and Italy of the 14th–16th centuries; the second floor has Italian, Spanish, French, Dutch and Flemish art of the 16th–18th centuries. Albrecht Dürer’s large-scale Feast of the Rosary (pictured above) is perhaps the most famous exhibit.

Wenceslas square (Václavské námestÍ)

Nearly a kilometre (two-thirds of a mile) long, Wenceslas Square is not really a square at all, but a wide boulevard. Nowadays, the former horse market is dominated by hotels, bars, restaurants, cafes, banks and department stores. It is a busy area, along which half of Prague seem to stroll. The historic square is crowned by the giant equestrian statue of St Wenceslas, erected by Josef Myslbek in 1912 after taking 30 years to plan and design.

National Theatre (NÁrodnÍ Divadlo)

This is the city’s main cultural venue and a potent symbol of the Czech spirit. In 1845 the ruling Habsburgs turned down the request for a Czech theatre. In response, money was collected on a voluntary basis, and the building of the theatre was declared a national duty. Built in an Italian Renaissance style in 1881, the theatre was destroyed in a fire just before it was due to open. Under Josef Schulz’s direction, using many notable artists including Vojtech Hynais, it was quickly rebuilt with the aid of endowments and donations and opened in 1883. The auditorium is only open to the public during performances.

Venice

More like a stage set than a city, Venice has captivated, enchanted and seduced visitors for centuries and has been endlessly portrayed by writers, painters and philosophers. Venice offers a kaleidoscope of images, from romantic gondolas to crumbling palaces on the Grand Canal. From a distance the city is a fantasy of sumptuous buildings that seem to float on the surface of the Adriatic. While most other great cities have been scarred with main roads and high-rise blocks, Venice remains unsullied by modernity, looking virtually as it did in its heyday, three centuries ago.

Orientation

River cruise vessels moor along the Giudecca Canal, between the ocean cruise terminal and the entrance of the Grand Canal. You can walk from the mooring points to St Mark’s Square in 20 minutes.

Getting Around

The best way to get around far-flung parts of the city is by boat. It is worth buying a one-day, three-day or weekly travel pass which will allow you to travel on water buses (vaporetti), including those that go to the islands. The traghetto is a small gondola ferry that crosses the Grand Canal at certain points. Most of the time you will probably be walking, which is the most practical way to see the city centre.

Business Hours

Shops are usually open from 9am–12.30pm or 1pm and again from 3pm or 3.30pm–7.30pm. Most of them, apart from those aimed mainly at tourists, are closed on Sunday. Churches tend to be open from 7.30am–noon, and then from 3.30pm or 4pm–6.30pm or 7pm. Office hours are normally 7.30am–12.30pm and 3.30pm– 6.30pm. Museums are often closed on Monday.

Excursions

The Venetian islands make for enjoyable day trips. BURANO is like a mini Venice with its own canals and unique architecture. The island once produced the world’s finest lace. The No. 12 ferry service to Burano leaves once an hour from Venice’s Fondamente Nuove.
In 1291 Venice moved its glass-making centre to the island of MURANO, whose Museo Vetrario di Murano documents the history of the famed Venetian glass industry.

Top City Sights

Rialto Bridge

This famous bridge crosses the Grand Canal at what used to be the busiest trading centre in the city – the Rialto market district. Two rows of shops lie within the solid, closed arches – the feature which gives it its unique appearance. This is a great place to pause and watch the river traffic, and admire the majestic sweep of palaces and warehouses swinging away to La Volta del Canal, the great elbow-like bend in the canal.

St Mark’s Basilica

This is the centrepiece of St Mark’s Square and is the most famous of the churches in Venice, a place the aesthete John Ruskin called “a treasure heap, a confusion of delight”. Best visited in the morning, the Basilica (open Mon–Sat 9.30am–5pm, Sun 2–4pm; daily from 7am for worship­pers; leave all bags in the Ateno San Basso on Piazzetta dei Leoncini), which was modelled on Byzantine churches in Constantinople, remains a glorious confusion. Despite the sloping irregular floors, an eclectic mix of styles both inside and out, the five low domes of unequal proportions and some 500 non-matching columns, St Marks still manages to convey a sense of grandeur as well as jewel-like delicacy.

San Rocco

The area of San Polo that lies within the bend of the Grand Canal is home to the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, famous for its paintings by Jacopo Tintoretto (open 9am–5.30pm). His magnificent works adorn every surface: the images are larger than life, full of chiaroscuro effects and floating, plunging figures in dramatic poses. One of the best-known is The Glorifi­cation of St Roch.

Scala De Bovolo

The Palazzo Contarini has an outstanding external spiral staircase in its interior courtyard, the Scala Contarini del Bovolo (summer daily 10am–6pm, winter Sat–Sun 10am–4pm), a Lombardesque work dating from 1499. Bovolo translates as “snailshell” in Venetian dialect.

St Mark’s Museum

The museum (open same hours as the Basilica) houses some of St Mark’s finest treasures. The star attraction is the world’s only surviving ancient quadriga (four horses abreast), known as the Cavalli di San Marco (The Horses of St Mark). These are the gilded bronze originals believed to have crowned Trajan’s Arch in Rome, but later moved to Constantinople, where Doge Dandolo claimed them as spoils of war, bringing them back to Venice. Replicas adorn the façade in order to protect the originals from corrosion.

Grand Canal

A trip along the Grand Canal, Venice’s fabulous highway, is an unforgettable experience. Along certain sections of the canal the gondolas still function as traghetti (ferries) and, from the station to St Mark’s Square, the banks are lined with ornate palaces and grand houses, mostly built between the 14th and 18th centuries. While some have been restored, others have a neglected air, awaiting their turn for renovation. Must-sees include the Ca’Grande, the Ca’Foscari, the Ca’d’Oro and the Guggenheim. As well as providing a cavalcade of pageantry, the canal offers a slice of local daily life, welcoming simpler craft such as gondolas and garbage barges.

Coffee Break

Before braving the hordes in the Basilica, retreat to one of the grand cafés on the square. The most Venetian is Caffè Florian, under the arcades of the Procuratie Nuove, or the Caffè Quadri, in the Procuratie Vecchie. Prices are high, but worth it for the setting.

St Mark’s lion

The winged lion represents St Mark, the patron saint of Venice, and adorns buildings, bridges and doorways. Whereas the seated lion represents the majesty of state, the walking lion symbolises sovereignty over its dominions. A golden winged lion of St Mark still adorns the city standard, and remains the symbol of the Veneto.

The Accademia

Housed in a former convent since 1807, the Accademia (open Mon 8.30am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.30am–7pm) displays the most complete collection of 14th–18th century Venetian painting in existence. This outstanding gallery is arranged chronologically in 24 rooms, and includes works by Titian, Canaletto, Bellini and Carpaccio. Jacopo Tintoretto’s dazzling St Mark’s paintings, notably the haunting Transport of the Body of St Mark, are also here. Since the gallery is illuminated by natural light, choose a bright day to explore.

Doge’s Palace

For nine centuries, the magnificent Doge’s Palace (open daily Apr–Oct 9am–7pm; Nov–Mar 9am–5pm) was the seat of the Republic, serving as a council chamber, law court and prison, as well as the residence of most of Venice’s doges. The architects of this massive structure, with peach-and-white patternings in its distinctive brick facade, achieved an incredible delicacy by balancing the bulk of the building above two floors of Istrian stone arcades.

Cannaregio Canal

This faded, northerly district, once the most fashionable in Venice, was the site of the world’s first Jewish ghetto. Before the advent of the causeway, the Canale di Cannaregio was the city’s main entry point; it is fitting that the district remains a bridge between Venice and the mainland, between the historic and the modern.

Ca D’oro

The 15th-century Ca D’Oro (open Mon 8.15am–2pm, Tues–Sun 8.15am–7.15pm) is the city’s most magnificent Gothic palace. On the façade, the friezes of interlaced foliage and mythological beasts were originally picked out in gold. The restored and modernised interior now features the Galleria Franchetti, which houses numerous Renaissance bronzes and sculptures.

The Frari

Officially known as Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari (open Mon–Sat 9am–6pm, Sun 1–6pm), this austere Franciscan centre is the largest and greatest of all the Venetian Gothic churches, founded in the 13th century and rebuilt in the 14th and 15th centuries. The adjoining cloisters house the state archives. The church’s greatest treasure is Titian’s Assumption, his masterpiece, hanging above the high altar. The great painter is buried here.

Vienna

Vienna’s compact historic centre is a treasure trove of secular and sacred gems, from the famous coffee houses and grand Habsburg palaces to the magnificent Gothic cathedral at its heart. For centuries, all manner of ideas were fomented and flourished among the city’s palaces and cafés. Art and music, theatre, medicine and psychology found the ideal climate in which to grow. Vienna has music in its blood. It is a city where the music never stops and has been home to some of the great composers, including Mozart, Haydn and Beethoven; and to some equally great architects from the historicist Heinrich von Ferstel to Otto Wagner, founder of the Viennese Jugendstil (art nouveau) movement.

Orientation

The Danube does not pass through the centre of Vienna – instead it runs through the northeast part of the city. Most river cruise vessels stop at the Vienna Shipping Centre (Schiffahrtszentrum), about 3km (2 miles) from the old centre. Others, however, dock at the pretty wine-growing suburb of Nussdorf to the north of the city, easily reached by taxi or public transport (20 minutes by tram). The whole centre is encircled by the Ringstrasse, inside which most of the main sights are located. Walking tours, cycling tours and even Segway Human Transporter tours operate regularly.

Getting Around

Trams and the underground are clean, safe and efficient, and easy to navigate. Buy a Vienna Card for unlimited transport for either 24 or 72 hours. Romantics should try a fiaker (horse-drawn carriage) ride from the Hofburg.

Business Hours

Shops are generally open 9am– 6pm Mon–Sat (smaller shops sometimes have a break at lunchtime). On Thursdays many stay open late – until 8pm. Some larger shops open on Sundays.

Excursions

To the west and southwest of the city lie the beautiful Vienna Woods (Wienerwald). The northern section of the woods is easily accessible by public transport from the city centre – take a picnic and enjoy the sweeping views across the city. Pass the evening in a Heurige (wine tavern) in one of the wine-growing villages, such as Grinzing or Nussdorf. The Burgenland region to the southeast of Vienna is the setting for one of the largest lakes in Europe, Lake Neusiedler. Take a day trip to its capital, Eisenstadt, burial place of Haydn. Some excellent wine is grown here and it’s a popular weekend getaway for the Viennese.

Top Sights

Schönbrunn Palace

A short distance from the inner city lies the Schönbrunn Palace (open daily Apr–Jun and Sept–Oct 8.30am–5pm, Jul–Aug 8.30am–6pm, Nov–Mar 8.30am–4.30pm), the imperial summer residence. Leopold I wished to build a palace to rival Versailles but financial difficulties stalled his plans. It was not until 1743 that Empress Maria Theresa employed Nikolaus Pacassi to build the fabulous palace we see today. In the formal grounds are the Baroque zoo, the Palm House and the graceful Gloriette, a neoclassical colonnade perched on the crest of a hill.

Stephansdom

St Stephen’s Cathedral (open daily 6am–10pm except during services), with its distinctive roof, is one of Vienna’s most famous landmarks and one of the greatest Gothic structures in Europe. The interior is rich in woodcarvings, altars and paintings. Climb the steps of the south tower for a breathtaking view of the city.

Museum Quarter

The Museums Quartier (visitor and ticket centre open Sat–Wed 10am–7pm, Thur–Fri 10am–9pm) is a giant cultural complex which includes the Museum of Modern Art (mumok) and the Leopold Museum, with its wonderful collection of 19th and 20th century art, including Schiele’s Moa the Dancer (pictured right). At the centre of the complex, the Kunsthalle holds temporary exhibitions.

Staatsoper

Vienna’s magnificent opera house was constructed in the 1860s, and rebuilt in 1945 after suffering a direct hit in a bombing raid. It was inaugrated in 1869 with Mozart’s Don Giovanni. The main façade is elaborately decorated with frescos depicting The Magic Flute. Once a year the stage and orchestra stalls turn into a giant dance floor for the Vienna Opera Ball.

Prater

The Prater (open Mar–Oct daily 10am–midnight), an open fairground and amusement park, is a favourite place of relaxation for the Viennese. Its main attraction is the Riesenrad, the giant Ferris wheel which was immortalised in the 1949 film The Third Man. This extensive stretch of parkland and woodland extends for almost 5km (3 miles).

Coffee houses

The Viennese coffee-house tradition is deeply rooted in the country’s culture and history, dating back over 300 years. Gentry and intellectuals mingled in the shady and fashionable Kaffeehaus. People take their coffee seriously here and there are names for every shade, from black to white. Coffee is served in a wide variety of ways, often with the addition of alcohol or whipped cream, though always with an obligatory glass of water.

Karlsplatz

Otto Wagner’s two wonderfully elegant entrance pavilions for the Stadtbahn on Karlsplatz date from 1894 and are prime examples of Jugendstil (art nouveau). For the designs of the pavilions, he combined a green iron framework with marble slabs and gilded sunflower decoration, and pioneered a new form of architecture in which functionality and simplicity of ornament were the priority.

Secession Building

The Secession Building (open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–8pm) was built as a “temple of art” to plans by Joseph Maria Olbrich in 1897. Gustav Klimt designed the Beethoven Frieze, on display on the lower floor, a visual interpretation of Beethoven’s Ninth Symphony. The cubic foyer is crowned by a dome of 3,000 gilt laurel leaves. Over the entrance is the motto “To Each Time its Art, to Art its Freedom”, a riposte from the Secession artists to the conservative Academy of Fine Arts.

Kunsthistorisches Museum

Several famous artists helped create the interior of the Kunsthistorisches Museum (open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm, Thurs 10am–9pm). A huge number of art treasures amassed by the Habsburgs are on display, including a fine collection of ancient Egyptian and Greek Art, and works by many of the great European masters.

Belvedere

The Belvedere (open Tues–Sun 10am–6pm), a palace of sumptuous proportions, was built between 1714 and 1723 for Prince Eugene of Savoy. It is in fact two palaces, the Upper and Lower Belvedere, joined by terraced gardens. Today it houses three museums containing works of Austrian and European art and sculpture.

Hofburg

The Hofburg was the winter residence of the ruling Habsburgs. Within the confines of this vast and impressive Imperial Palace are the Spanish Riding School and the sleek Lipizzaner horses, and the Burgkapelle, where the Vienna Boys’ Choir sing Sunday Mass. Notable collections housed here are the Collection of Court Porcelain and Silver and the Imperial Treasury, containing crown jewels and ecclesiastical treasures. The palatial National Library, also in the complex, contains more than 2 million manuscripts, printed books, maps and musical scores.

Cairo

Cairo is a vast, chaotic urban sprawl of around 20 million people, the largest city in Africa. It is a multicultural melting pot, a modern-day metropolis and a magnificent Oriental bazaar all rolled into one. Its reputation for dust, filth and noise, though valid, is only part of the picture in this city. The heat is fierce between April and October. Visitors eager to encounter the real Cairo, and not just the city of temples and mosques, should head for the narrow alleys in the old part of the city where Cairenes treat the streets as their living room. The centre of Cairo is bisected by the Nile, with the corniche (as the river banks are known) lined with five-star hotels and prestigious office blocks.

Orientation

River cruises at the time of writing operate only to Luxor but the intention is to open more locks at Esna and to dredge the Nile, which is silting up, to allow boats to continue to Cairo. This is expected to happen at some point in 2007. River trips from Cairo are mainly felucca rides and they go from jetties all over the city centre.

Getting Around

The excellent Cairo metro is inexpensive, quick and clean and the best way to get around. Buses are overcrowded, taxis are cheap.

Business Hours

Shops are open 9am–7 or 8pm in winter and 9am–8 or 9pm in summer, often closing for lunch between 1.30pm and 4pm. Many shops are closed on Fridays and Saturdays. Major museums and sites are mostly open daily from 8am until 5 or 6pm.

Top City Sights

Pyramids (Giza and Sphinx)

These monumental wonders are southwest of the city. The Pyramids of Giza are truly awe-inspiring and are the only surviving structures of the Seven Wonders of the ancient world. The mythical creature of the Sphinx was carved from natural limestone and is suffering badly from erosion.

Egyptian Museum

The enormous Egyptian Museum (open daily 9am–7pm) holds the world’s greatest collection of Egyptian artefacts, with 155,000 exhibits documenting 4,500 years of history. Among the highlights are the treasures found in the tomb of Pharaoh Tutankhamun by Howard Carter in 1922.

Museum of Islamic Art

This dusty, but wonderful, museum has a huge treasury of miniatures, carpets and textiles, weapons and assorted artefacts, providing a complete overview of artistic development since Islamicisation. (Open Sat–Thur 9am–4pm, Fri 9am–11.30am, 1–4pm.)

Khan al-Khalili Bazaar

Cairo’s colourfully exotic Khan al-Khalili bazaar (open 10am–7 or 8pm) is the place to buy leather goods, hookahs, jewellery and antiques. Don’t let the merchandise on display block the view of the architecture hereabouts: the inner courtyards are especially magnificent.

Sultan Hasan Mosque

This mosque (open daily winter 8am–5pm, summer 8am–6pm) is one of the finest examples of Islamic architecture in the world. The walls are 117 ft (36 metres) high and so solidly built that the mosque was twice used as a fortress – first in 1381 during a Mamluk revolt and then again in 1517 during the Ottoman invasion. The intricately carved stucco friezes and marble ornamentation are the main features.

Luxor

Luxor is a manageable, pleasant city, thoroughly geared to tourism. The east bank of the Nile is solid with river cruisers; too many, almost, as only those on the outside of the ranks enjoy the magnificent view across the river to the sandy hills of the west bank and the thrilling secrets they conceal.
Although towns were always built on the east bank and tombs on the west, Luxor’s west bank is becoming developed, with alabaster workshops and farming villages dotted around the fertile fields. A drive across here at dawn is still magical, the rising sun reflecting off the glassy water of the irrigation canals and turning the mountains a soft shade of golden yellow. Every morning, a cluster of hot-air balloons takes off and drifts silently over the Nile and the valleys of the Kings and Queens.

Orientation

Nile cruise vessels dock along the east bank in a long string, so some can be quite a distance from the centre. This isn’t necessarily a problem, as there are calèches (horse-drawn carriages) everywhere. The main areas of interest in the town are the Corniche, along which calèches form a constant stream, bearing travellers on a well-trodden route between the Luxor Museum, the market, the Luxor Temple, which is in the middle of the town, and the riverboats.

Getting Around

Taxis are the easiest way to get around Luxor. The calèches is a more leisurely mode of transport, but agree a price before you start your journey. Arabayas (microbuses) also operate around the town and are quite inexpensive.

Business Hours

The opening hours of shops are not regulated, and are mostly related to the visiting times of monuments nearby. Some shops in Luxor are open 8am–5pm, others stay open until 10 or 11pm – each trader opens and closes to demand. Friday is the official day off.

Top Sights

Luxor Temple

Luxor Temple, like Karnak is dedicated to Amun and Mut. The impressive entrance is guarded by two enormous statues of Ramesses II, who ordered the construction of the great pylon. A lone, graceful obelisk towers 25 metres (82 ft) over the statues; its partner was given to the city of Paris in 1833 and now adorns the Place de la Concorde.
Interestingly, a mosque was constructed on top of the temple in the 14th century and is still in use today. It’s a strange sight, one form of architecture so obviously built on top of something completely different, but what was once the mosque’s door is now a window, several metres above the ground. When the mosque was built, the temple itself was several metres under the surface, buried in silt. Open daily 6am–9pm, until 10pm in summer.

Valley of the Kings/ tomb of Tutankhamun

Across the river from Luxor, the pharaohs were buried in a honeycomb of tombs set in what is now known as the Valley of the Kings. For many, this is the real highlight of a Nile cruise. Above ground, there’s little to see apart from hordes of visitors blinking as they emerge into the sunlight, the real treasures lying deep inside the mountains in an unassuming blind valley. There are 66 known tombs, built for the pharaohs of the 18th, 19th and 20th dynasties, which are opened to the public in rotation. You won’t know which tombs are open until you arrive at the site. Each one is unromantically named “KV” and then a number, according to the order in which the tombs were officially mapped in the 19th century. The entrance fee covers any three tombs except KV62, the tomb of Tutankhamun, for which an extra charge is made.
Most tombs don’t actually contain any human remains, but the hieroglyphs and paintings on the walls are stunning, with incredible colour that has remained unchanged over the millennia. The usual style is three corridors, an antechamber and a sunken sarcophagus chamber, where the mummy would be installed. Texts from the Book of the Dead, the Book of the Gates and the Book of the Underworld adorn the walls, telling the story of the Pharaoh’s life and preparing him for the experiences he will have in the next life. KV2, the tomb of Ramesses IV, is particularly impressive, with dazzling.