European River Cruises

• Ten countries
• Standards and ratings
• Types of cruise
• Excursions and themes
• What it all costs
• Who takes these cruises?
• When to go

An overview of river cruises to help you plan a trip.

There is no question that Europe and Egypt are the world’s most popular regions for river cruising, attracting hundreds of ­thousands of holidaymakers a year. From their origins as little more than waterborne bus tours, the European river cruise scene has developed into a more sophisticated type of holiday, with a variety of themes, itineraries, combinations of cruising and hotel stays, and styles of vessel. The race is now on to see who can deliver the most sophisticated ships, with larger cabins and bathrooms, private balconies, exciting facilities on board, more adventurous itineraries and a wider range of shore excursions to choose from than ever before.

Europe’s heartland offers the greatest concentration of navigable waterways in the world today. The rivers – the Rhine, Danube and Elbe – offer a unique perspective on the historic landscapes through which they carve their way, passing historic cities, medieval towns and fabled villages, their courses overlooked by forbidding castles, dense forests and rolling hills. Cruising along these waterways is an ideal way to gain an insight into the cultures, heri­tage and traditions of these lands, and the day-to-day lives of the people who live alongside the water.

Ten countries

Part of the appeal of European river cruising is the variety of landscapes and cultures it offers in such a short time. A cruise along the full length of the Danube, for example, will take you through 10 countries, the route punctuated throughout with castles, gorges, historic cities, riverside abbeys and Roman antiquities.

Needless to say, it isn’t all so picturesque – Europe’s waterways also have a good deal of inland ports and heavy industry, and the river scenery can be bleakly industrial at times. Close to cities, factories and power stations along the banks will be common sights. The most ­obvious exception is the Nile; the most popular stretch of the river for cruises, between Luxor and Aswan, is rural, tranquil and beautiful.

The most popular rivers in mainland Europe for cruising are the Danube and the Rhine (and its tributaries the Moselle, Main and Neckar). Less travelled are the Elbe, the Rhône/Saône and Seine in France, together with Italy’s Po and ­Portugal’s Douro, while “new” – in other words, relatively undiscovered – rivers include the Dnieper in Ukraine, the Vistula in Poland, and the Guadiana in southern Portugal. Russian river cruising, mainly between Moscow and St Petersburg, is consistently popular, and is a fantastic way to visit places that would ­otherwise be difficult to reach. The original cruising river, the Nile, with its magnificent sights, continues to attract large numbers of tourists.

Standards and ratings

River cruising in Europe has reached a sophisticated level today, and cruise operators are adopting more and more of the practices of ocean-going cruise lines, as the market becomes increasingly demanding. New vessels always have cabins with private balconies, a trend which has been very strong in ocean cruising over the last decade. Luxury vessels are becoming more so, with cruise operators emphasising features such as the quality of the bed linen, the cabin amenities and the ratio of staff to passengers. Some have small spas on board. And many river cruise operators now include sporting activities such as cycling and golf in addition to the traditional cultural activities.

Nonetheless, the river cruise market is confusing. There is no standard star rating, although all river cruise operators brand their vessels three-, four- or five-star. You’ll never see a one- or two-star river boat! Different countries have different interpretations of this, and a Russian or Egyptian five-star vessel will not be the same as one on the Danube or the Rhine. To give a clear idea of the standards of vessels on all the routes covered in this guide, we have included the independent ratings of the Maritime Evaluations Group on pages 355–360.

Types of cruise

Certain vessels cater for specific language groups and may, for example, only be sold in the USA, or to German-speakers. While anybody can book one of these cruises, everything from the food to the entertainment and the ­general lifestyle will be geared to a certain ­market. There is a clear trend for vessels aimed at Americans to have more American-style ­cuisine, for example, and to be entirely non-smoking (except on deck). There are several cruises sold to all markets, which means a good, international mix on board – but opportunities for culture clashes as well.

Most river cruises are sold as all-inclusive packages, often including a couple of days’ hotel accommodation at the beginning or end of the cruise. If you are already in Europe, many cruises can be purchased as “cruise-only” for greater flexibility, so you can add on your own hotel stays afterwards. Many cruise lines package these, for example, adding a few nights in Prague after a cruise on the Elbe, or flying into Munich and spending a weekend there before driving to Passau to join a Danube cruise.

Excursions and themes

A whole range of optional excursions is available on river cruises, from the standard sightseeing tours to more specialised cultural tours – such as following the path of Harry Lime (from the famous 1949 film The Third Man) in Vienna. There are also more active pursuits on offer, such as hot-air ballooning over the Danube, or horse-riding in the countryside south of Budapest. Often, the excursions are included in the price, which makes a huge difference to the cost of the cruise. If they are not, you can either buy a ­separate excursion “package”, or book the trips individually once on board. Sometimes, it’s a mix of the two. For example, on a Nile cruise, you should expect all temple visits to be included in the cost, but things like hot-air ballooning over Luxor, or a side trip to Abu Simbel, will be extra.

Themed cruises are increasingly popular, as cruise companies compete with one another to offer more creative itineraries. Europe’s rivers lend themselves to all sorts of themes, from music, art and literature in Russia to gardens along the Rhine, featuring visits to famous botanical gardens, not to mention ­castles and their grounds and gardens. Other special cruises involve classical and jazz music, fine food and wine-tasting, shopping, and, of course, Christmas and New Year celebrations, particularly in Austria, France and Germany. Also popular in Germany is the magical Rhine in Flames festival in August; a river cruise provides a ringside seat for the spectacular fireworks displays.

Even when a cruise does not have a theme, a taste of local culture is often brought on board. Russian river cruises, for example, may have Russian lessons, vodka-tasting and tea ceremonies. In Portugal, port-tastings are laid on. The cuisine on board will often reflect the country through which the vessel is passing, unlike ocean cruises, where menus are planned from a head office, regardless of where the ship is sailing.

What it all costs

Typical rates for river cruises are from US$800 to over $3,000 per person for a one-week cruise, including meals, cabin with private facilities, side trips and airport/railway transfers. This may sound expensive, but all things considered, river cruises are actually very affordable. Calculate what accommodation would cost on land: it can be hard to find a small hotel room in almost any major city today for less than $100 a night – and for that you’ll probably get a view of a parking lot or brick wall. Then estimate the cost of three restaurant meals a day. Add the cost of attentive, friendly service, as well as transfers, social functions, educational and destination lectures, and some light entertainment. You will soon realise that a river cruise can provide excellent value for money when compared to a land-based holiday. Then there’s the bonus that, although you’re moving, you have to pack and unpack only once.

Having said that, as with any other form of holiday, the price bands are wide and costs vary according to the standard of the vessel, the cabin and the destination. An outside twin on Peter Deilmann’s Mozart, considered the most luxurious river vessel afloat, costs around $370 per person per night, while a suite is around $610. A twin on the Viking Pakhomov in Russia, meanwhile, costs around $229 per person per night. The daily rate on the River Elbe with Viking River Cruises is about $250. On the Nile, a luxury cruise costs around $260–480 per person per night in peak season ($700 in a suite), dropping to $160 ($800 in a suite) in low season (July and August). Nile prices include all shore excursions. All the above prices apply to the cruise only – airfares and other transport costs typically included in a package deal will add significantly to the total cost, particularly if you are travelling from the US.

Hotel barge cruising prices are higher than those of river cruises as there are far fewer ­people per vessel and a much higher level of service and food, as well as the fact that all drinks and excursions are included. A week on a privately-chartered, crewed barge with a company like Afloat in France can cost up to $5,000 per ­person; six nights with European Waterways in southwest France costs around $2,400. Again these prices exclude airfares (but do include the train fare from Paris).

Who takes these cruises?

River cruises appeal to those who like to travel in small numbers, but they are particularly well suited to couples – especially those over 50, senior-age honeymooners and groups of friends. Many passengers are retirees, or professionals with plenty of flexible time and disposable income. In short, they appeal to anyone who is culturally aware and wants to experience the heart of a country and its people, instead of simply travelling through it.

A cruise is actually the perfect environment for singles – safe and convivial – but cruising alone is an expensive business, as almost no vessels have dedicated cabins for singles. Although you can occupy a double cabin on your own, you’ll be penalised with higher fares, a constant bugbear of the single traveller.

As for honeymooners, river cruises provide a delightful setting, although they tend to appeal more to honeymooners of senior years. Most arrangements will have been taken care of before you sail, so all you have to do is show up. Some vessels have accommodation in ­double-, queen- or king-sized beds, too – al­though in general, you’ll find that the cabins (and particularly the bathrooms) are very small when compared to a typical hotel room. The other drawback is that you don’t actually get that much time alone, as you eat with other ­people and take excursions in groups.

You will not see many children on river cruises. For those with young children, cots can usually be provided if you ask at the time of booking, but high chairs and children’s meals will not ­usually be available on board. There are no children’s playrooms, and babysitting is at the discretion of the hotel manager and crew.

Chartering a hotel barge in France (see pages 30–31 and 193–199) is a popular option for families. Barges typically carry between six and 12, and the cruise and catering can be adapted to your needs.

When to go

Summer is the peak season (although on the Nile it is low season). The weather should be good, but attractions will be crowded. If you don’t enjoy the throngs of visitors that typically invade ­Central Europe’s historic centres during the height of summer, it would be worth taking your cruise during other seasons, when prices are also lower. Certain places are actually better off-­season; the beautiful Wachau Valley of the Danube, for example, can rival the USA’s east coast for its magnificent autumn colours.

Most river cruise vessels stop overnight, giving you the chance to take in the sights and sounds of major destinations. Going in the off-season also means there will be a better chance to obtain tickets for a concert, ballet or opera in such distinguished cities as Budapest, Prague or Vienna. The off-season for mass tourism is the on-season for many of the best cultural events in any case, particularly in winter.

A river cruise during the Christmas season, when the sights, sounds and smells are enhanced by the month of Advent, can be magical, particularly to German-speaking destinations, which have a tradition of beautiful Christmas markets. The scents of cinnamon, gingerbread, roasting chestnuts and Glühwein (spiced wine) fill the air during the Christmas holiday season. Festive Christmas markets fill the squares in most cities, towns and villages along the Danube and Rhine rivers with ­seasonal celebratory food, handicrafts and ­wonderful Christmas decorations. Market ­artisans demonstrate traditional arts and crafts, and market stalls are all beautifully decorated to the nines. At night, the lights form a magical backdrop to the gaily decorated markets and add a jovial ambience that is difficult to find anywhere else.

Regensburg, often a starting or finishing point for several river cruise vessels, has its Christmas market in the town’s charming square. Vienna has a number of Christmas markets, and the window dressing of the stores along the wide Kartnerstrasse is among the very best in the world. The most famous Christmas market is in Nurem­berg, however. Located in the old walled section of the city, it is the oldest in Germany, having begun in the 17th century. Row upon row of specially constructed stalls provides the olde-world setting in this magical place.

CroisiEurope and Viking River Cruises are two river cruise operators that have special cruises to the Christmas markets of Europe. CroisiEurope (a French operator) typically starts and ends its Christmas cruises in Strasbourg. Viking River Cruises typically operates its Christmas cruises from Nuremberg to Vienna (or reverse).

The Nile has different cruising seasons from Europe. January to March is popular, when the weather is cooler. June to October is low season, when it’s ferociously hot, although cruises still operate. During these summer months, the antiquities are a lot less crowded, but shore excursions do start very, very early; most operators aim to have passengers back on board by 10am, before the heat becomes unbearable. When the vessel is moving, though, the breeze makes the climate very pleasant.