An A to Z River Cruising
A full rundown of what to expect on board, from types of cabin, food and drink, to making the most of a day on the water.
River cruise vessels may look broadly similar from the outside, but levels of comfort and equipment on board do in fact vary widely. This chapter is a comprehensive guide to what you can expect.
Accommodation (cabins)
Although most cabins are on the small side when compared to hotel rooms, with limited closet and drawer space, they should prove to be quite comfortable for a one- or two-week journey. Virtually all cabins have an outside (river-facing) view, with the exception of the Danube Princess and Mozart, which have a few interior (no view) cabins. Almost all cabins will have a private bathroom.
Generally speaking, the higher up the vessel you are, the better, roomier (and more expensive) your cabin will be. (For information on cabin costs see page 28.) Upper-deck cabins have larger river-view windows than cabins on the lowest deck, which usually have smaller or half-height windows or portholes. In real-estate terminology, this translates to location, location, location. However, there are generally only two decks of cabins aboard most vessels in Europe and on the Nile – only the Russian vessels typically have three or four decks of cabins. Cabin sizes vary from a dimensionally challenged 6 sq. metres (64 sq. ft) to a very expansive 45 sq. metres (484 sq. ft), depending on vessel and river. Some vessels have “suites”, which are usually a much larger cabin rather than a suite of rooms in the traditional sense.
Expect bathrooms to be functional rather than sumptuous – there simply isn’t room on a river cruise vessel to accommodate the luxurious touches you would find in a hotel suite, or in the top suites on board an ocean-going ship.
Romantics should note that twin beds are the norm, particularly aboard some of the older vessels; most of these are normally fixed and can seldom be pushed together. Many cabins in the latest vessels feature a personal safe, a minibar, a television and dvd, and an alarm clock/ radio. The ceilings may be rather low, however (they tend to be somewhat higher in vessels built before 1980), and the beds are typically shorter and narrower than you may be used to at home.
Perhaps the most noticeable recent design feature is one that imitates the ocean-going cruise ships, and that is the introduction of cabins with that revered bit of space – a private balcony. Sitting there sipping drinks while watching the scenery drift by really is the most delightfully decadent feeling. Having said that, not all “balconies” have any space for seating at all – some are so-called “French balconies”, where the doors open but there is a railing immediately outside.
On European river cruises and cruise barges, European duvets are usually provided, rather than sheets and blankets. Anti-allergenic pillows may be available, although it is wise to make your request known at the time of booking.
Cuisine
Good food and service are essential elements of any successful river cruise operation. In this regard, there is a wide variation, and some operators are much better than others. All meals are included in the price of the cruise, but alcoholic drinks are almost always extra.
Although much of what is served is intended to satisfy the tastes of whichever nationality is prevalent on board (see panel on page 42), river cruise operators do often try hard to provide cuisine that reflects the region in which they are cruising – goulash in Hungary, Middle Eastern dishes in Egypt, blinis in Russia, for example. Wines will also usually reflect the region in which you are cruising; in Egypt, it’s a good idea to develop a taste for the local wines as all imported alcohol is very expensive on board.
On the lower-priced river cruise vessels you will inevitably get frozen food that has simply been reheated. To get fresh food (particularly fresh fish and the best cuts of meats), river cruise operators must pay significantly more, adding to the overall price of a cruise. It’s certainly a case of getting what you pay for.
Most vessels feature self-serve buffets for breakfast and luncheon. While buffets look fine when they are fresh, after a few minutes of attack by passengers serving themselves, they generally look quite unappetising. Aboard some vessels (particularly the better ones in Europe), the order for hot choices will be taken by your table waiter and cooked to order in the galley.
Passengers should not have to play guessing games when it comes to food, but many river cruise operators still forget to put labels on food items; this slows down any buffet operation. Labels on salad dressings, sauces and cheeses are often forgotten or slightly vague, particularly aboard vessels with passengers of many nationalities.
All dining rooms have large river picture-view windows and typically almost all passengers, including those not seated by a window, will have a view. If the boat is docked, though, you may be moored two or three deep, in which case the curtains will be closed to prevent people on the neighbouring vessel from staring in. This can be disappointing on a sunny day, and also claustrophobic.
The principal difference in the present design of dining rooms lies in the layout of the buffet display-counter set-up. In many cases, little attention has been paid to food presentation, and little thought given to hygiene; you won’t see the antiseptic wipes present on most ocean-going ships nowadays. Tables located adjacent to the doors or open entrance to the galley (kitchen) tend to be noisy, and should be avoided if possible.
Where you eat and with whom depends on the vessel and the operating company. Aboard all European vessels, for example, dining is at one seating for all meals. Aboard the German vessels of Peter Deilmann River Cruises and those operated by Viking River Cruises, two of the largest European operators, dining is at assigned tables (this means you could be seated next to or opposite strangers, who may or may not speak your language, depending on where the vessel is marketed). Aboard the vessels operated by Grand Circle Travel and Vantage Deluxe World Tours, there are no assigned or reserved tables).
Dining options
Dinner is normally a one-seating meal, with either assigned or unassigned table seating. When it is unassigned, you can sit where you want, with whom you wish. Tables for two are a rarity; most tables seat four, six or eight. It is a good idea to ask to be seated at a larger table, because if you are a couple seated at a table for four and you do not get along with your table partners, there is no one else to talk to. And remember, if the ship is full, it may be difficult to change tables once the cruise has started. If you are assigned to a table with people you don’t like, discreetly ask the maître d’ to move you – they will try.
Dinner is normally a fully served meal (aboard some river cruise vessels, you can help yourself to salads and cheeses from the evening buffet). There will usually be a choice of only two main courses, and eating “off menu”, for example, ordering a grilled steak instead of the richer fare on offer, is not standard practice as it may be in smart hotels or on board ocean-going cruise ships.
Most river cruise vessels cannot offer a real “gourmet” experience because the galley (a vessel’s kitchen) may be striving to turn out up to 300 meals at the same time, from a very small and confined space. The chefs will, however, bake all bread on board and will often produce surprisingly elaborate pastries, cakes and canapés. In general you will find a good selection of palatable, pleasing and complete meals served in comfortable surroundings. Of course, river cruise vessels that have fewer passengers will be able to offer better meals.
Experienced passengers who “collect” river cruises have seen, smelt and tasted it all before: at worst, you may come across rock-hard lobster, year-old farmed and frostbitten shrimp, stringy chicken and grenade-quality meats. Not to mention processed cheese, soggy salty crackers, unripe fruits and coffee that looks (and tastes) like army surplus paint… Sadly, it is all there in the river cruise industry’s global cafeteria.
Most passengers agree that river cruise coffee is generally poor, but often it is simply the chlorinated water that gives it a different taste. Europeans prefer strong coffee, usually made from the coffee beans of African countries like Kenya, while North Americans usually drink coffee from Colombia or Jamaica. European tea drinkers like to drink tea out of teacups, not coffee or mugs (very few river cruise vessels know how to make a decent cup of tea, so British passengers in particular should be aware of this).
A word about wine etiquette. If you are sharing a table with strangers, do you buy your own or do you split the bill? Generally, if you all get on well and nobody is a visibly fast or heavy drinker, or is boasting about their expensive tastes, it’s pleasant, and conducive to a good atmosphere, if you can take turns to buy the wine. If in doubt, simply buy your own – nobody will be offended.
Special requirements
If you are vegetarian, vegan, macrobiotic, counting calories, want a salt-free, sugar-restricted, low-fat, low-cholesterol, or any other diet, advise your travel agent at the time of booking, and get the river cruise operator to confirm that the ship can actually handle your dietary requirements. Note that food does tend to be liberally sprinkled with salt (particularly aboard the vessels operating on Russia’s rivers and waterways), and vegetables are often cooked with sauces containing dairy products, salt and sugar. Chefs on board river cruise vessels may not have much experience in catering for vegetarians, so be prepared for repetitive dishes and sometimes odd combinations, such as pasta and chips…
Genetically modified food
The subject of genetically modified food continues to receive much press and attention. Most discerning river cruise operators understand that passengers may require assurances as to their position on the matter. Suffice it to say that there are some by-products of genetically modified food that are difficult to detect due to current labelling regulations. Some (but not all) river cruise operators work closely with their food suppliers to identify and remove any products that contain these ingredients.
If you are unhappy with any aspect of the dining room operation or food, the sooner you tell someone the better. Do not wait until the cruise is over to send a scathing letter to the cruise line, for then it is too late to do anything positive.
Disabled passengers
In general, most vessels lack adequate facilities for passengers with disabilities. Few have elevators, for example, although some have special chair lifts on tracks that rise with the stairs. However, it’s on land where most problems occur, particularly in countries where cities are very old and public facilities for the disabled scarcely exist. Depending on the river, many landing stages are connected to steps leading up to a city or town. Also, in some locations, vessels are berthed side by side, and passengers may have to walk across the narrow gangways of several vessels to reach land. Think carefully before booking a river cruise if you have mobility problems. It can be done, but you will need a lot of assistance, and hardly any river cruise vessels have cabins for wheelchair users.
Wheelchair accessibility in some destinations can be frustrating, and wheelchair-accessible transportation will be limited. Also, in some destinations, vessels are often tied up alongside each other (the view from your cabin may well be obscured). This means there could be two, three or four vessels tied up together, and anyone in a wheelchair would have to be carried across the vessels (possibly including steps) in order to be placed on the dockside.
Many riverside cities are hilly, and destinations such as Bratislava have numerous steps to negotiate between river level and street level. Also take into account the fact that many cities are very old, and many cobblestone streets, which make wheeling bone-shakingly difficult and uncomfortable. Vessels occasionally tie up at night in outlying areas, and the staff are not allowed to carry you in your wheelchair across the landing ramp.
Most coaches used for shore excursions or transfers do not have any facilities for carrying wheelchair-bound passengers (no special seats or hydraulic lowering platforms), and no storage space for wheelchairs.
The engine room
It is quite possible that you can make a visit to the engine room, if you so wish (ask at the reception desk). Note, however, that the engine room aboard almost all river cruise vessels is an extremely compact space and will inevitably be very noisy and quite dirty, due to the fact that engines are of the diesel type. You can also ask to visit the galley and the bridge. On an ocean-going ship, these areas are strictly off-limits because of security reasons, but river cruise vessels are more relaxed and informal. The only time bridge visits are not encouraged is during complicated manoeuvres or bad weather.
Excursions ashore
Shore excursions on a river cruise are a highlight for many passengers, with everything from helicopter rides and hot-air ballooning to wine-tasting, horse riding and musical recitals in historic venues on offer. When shore excursions are included in the cruise fare it will be reflected in the price, but this does take the pressure off holiday spending. If you are visiting new places and want the value of a good guide, it’s best to choose a company where excursions are included. Normally, this will comprise full days of activities when the ship is in port and often a couple of evening events, too.
When river cruise operators plan and oversee optional excursions, they assume that passengers have not been to a place before, and aim to show them its highlights in a comfortable manner and at a reasonable price.
Buses or minibuses are usually the principal choice of transportation. This cuts costs and allows the tour operator to narrow the selection of guides to only those most competent, knowledgeable, and fluent in whatever language the majority of passengers speak, while providing some degree of security and control.
Learn to read between the lines on shore excursions: The term “visit” should be taken to mean actually entering the place or building concerned, whereas “see” should be taken to mean viewing from the outside (as from a bus, for example). Beware of excursion guides who give you a coloured disk to wear for “identification”. They may be marking you as a “rich” tourist for local shopkeepers. Many cruise lines’ ground handlers have the annoying habit of throwing in an unannounced factory or shop visit on a shore excursion. This is inevitably a ruse for the guide and the tour operator to earn commission. It’s particularly bad practice in Russia and Egypt. If you can see your guide building up to this, it’s worth negotiating ten minutes in the shop instead of half an hour and adding 20 minutes instead to the local market.
Optional excursions are timed to be most convenient for the greatest number of participants, taking into account the timing of meals on board (these may be altered according to excursion times). Departure times are listed in the descriptive literature and in the daily programme (delivered to your cabin), and may or may not be announced over the vessel’s public address system. There are no refunds if you miss the excursion. If you are hearing-impaired, make arrangements with the shore-excursion staff to assist you in departing for your excursions at the correct times.
City excursions for larger cities are basically superficial, although they do provide a useful introduction. To see specific sights in more detail, or to get to know a city in a more intimate fashion, go alone with a guidebook or with a small group and a private guide. Go by taxi or bus, or walk directly to the places that are of most interest to you.
Going solo? If you hire a taxi for sightseeing, negotiate the price in advance, and do not pay until you get back to the vessel or to your final destination. If you are with friends, hiring a taxi for a full- or half-day sightseeing trip can often work out far cheaper than renting a car, and you also avoid the hazards of driving. Naturally, prices vary according to destination, but this can be an excellent way of sightseeing, particularly if you can find a driver who speaks your language, and who has a comfortable, air-conditioned vehicle.
Health on board
Although first-aid kits are carried, river cruise vessels, unlike ocean-going cruise ships, don’t generally have a doctor or nurse on board (with the exception of Peter Deilmann River Cruises and most Russian vessels). However, as the shore is never too far away, any necessary arrangements can be made quickly. Always take out comprehensive travel and medical insurance before travelling. It is extremely unlikely that you will get seasick unless the flat-bottomed river cruiser crosses open water on a choppy day. This occurs at the mouth of the River Elbe, and when crossing Russia’s Lake Ladoga to get to Valaam Island, as well as on the new river/ ocean cruises offered along the Algarve. On any of these, take seasickness-prevention pills as a precaution.
If you need help or information, the reception desk is the place to start. Centrally located, this is the nerve centre of the vessel for general passenger information and problems. Opening hours are posted on the desk and given in the daily programme.which is delivered to your cabin every evening detailing the following day’s activities. A few vessels have internet access (see page 50). Most river cruise vessels also have a library, offering a small selection of books, reference material and periodicals, as well as board games such as Scrabble, backgammon and chess.
Main lounge
Here, the placement of the bar is important, in that it acts as a vessel’s main interior lounge, with large panoramic windows for river viewing. Ideally, sight lines should not be impeded. In other words, placing the bar at the back of the room provides more prime seating and viewing spaces in the all-important forward section (particularly when the outside weather may be chilly at the beginning and end of the cruise season in Europe).
Money and expenses on board
Full board is always included in the cruise fare or tour package price. This typically includes a self-serve buffet breakfast, self-serve lunch, afternoon coffee/tea, full-service dinner and late-night snack. In most cases, the chefs aboard river cruise vessels purchase their own food in local markets, so it’s usually very fresh. Aboard some vessels and hotel barges, beer, soft drinks and wine may also be included in the fare.
There’s no need to carry cash on board, although of course you will need it for any shore excursions; see following page. It is now the norm to cruise cash-free and to settle your account with one payment (by cash or credit card) prior to disembarking on the last day. Often this is arranged by making an imprint of a credit card when you embark, permitting you to sign for everything. Before the end of the cruise, a detailed statement is delivered to your cabin. Some cruise lines may discontinue their “cashless” system for the last day of the cruise, which can be most irritating – this means you must carry and pay with cash for all purchases.
Money on shore
Many banks, particularly in Eastern Europe, are uneasy with travellers’ cheques. Not only will you need a passport to change them into the local currency, but you may also end up paying a commission to convert them.
It would be better to carry a major credit/debit card. You will get a better rate when you use these cards at one of the international cashpoint network operators than from most high-street outlets, or bureaux de change. A credit card will be useful if you are, for example, taking a River Danube cruise, which traverses several countries.
Overall, it is best to diversify your funds, use a combination of payment methods, and always have some back-up cash (euros or dollars) to hand. Most travel insurance policies will cover money stolen from a credit card – typically up to US$300.
Of the countries included in this book, Austria, Belgium, France, Germany, Holland, Italy, Portugal and Spain all use euros. Those countries which became EU?member states in 2004 (including the Czech Republic, Slovakia, Hungary and Poland) and in 2007 (Romania and Bulgaria),?are likely to join the eurozone at some point in the future, but even so, euros – or dollars – are generally accepted on the tourist trail. The currency in Russia is the rouble, and in Egypt the Egyptian pound. If you are taking a Russian or Nile cruise, it’s best to purchase local currency when you arrive (exchange rates are better than you will find if you purchase currency in the UK?or US?before departure).
On-board bookings
It’s advisable to make appointments as soon after boarding as possible (particularly on short cruises) for things like the on-board spa and hairdresser, if there is one. Charges are comparable to those ashore. It is also essential that you advise the cruise operator at the time of booking of any special dietary requirements.
On deck
Most vessels have a decent amount of outdoor deck space, and the atmosphere on deck is usually convivial – it’s a great place to sit, relax and watch the scenery drift by. Many of the older vessels (pre-1990) also have a small, sheltered, aft viewing deck.
The top deck is *typically an open deck, and runs almost the full length of the vessel. In the front will be the navigation bridge (pilot house), which, on some vessels, will have been cleverly constructed so that it can be lowered hydraulically into the deck below to avoid low bridges*. Any other canopies and side railings are also designed so that they can be folded down (some vessels have canopies for deck buffets), while chairs and sun loungers will remain on deck.
Many vessels will have a life-size chess game or a sunken small pool – a plunge pool rather than somewhere to swim. When the top deck is in use, it is a wonderful vantage point for the ease of river life, for watching the scenery constantly unfolding before you. Every second is different, and this is where there is a vast difference between ocean-going and river cruising – the proximity of the shore from a river vessel makes it all come alive. The top deck is also a very social place, where you’ll meet others, have light meals and simply sit and talk.
Other facilities
Some of the larger vessels may also have a small pool, sauna, massage room, library area and, on new vessels, internet access (see page 50). More upmarket vessels have a small hairdressing salon, a proper shore excursion office, a laundry for passengers’ use, and sometimes a doctor on board (not a legal requirement for a river cruise in Europe). The Mozart, the height of luxury, has a fitness centre and coffee shop, and some of the vessels launched in 2005 and 2006 have small spas.
Some additional features may be less obvious. More recent vessels may have stair lifts. Some have cabin windows that open fully, or French balconies, or hotel-style beds rather than single beds arranged in an L-shape (common on older vessels).
Safety on the river
Within the European Union, travel companies and tour operators that sell river cruises have to adhere to certain rules regarding fire, food preparation and water quality. On cruises in Egypt and Russia, safety may be more variable. A good Egyptian cruise vessel hotel manager will proudly show guests the kitchen and the water-purification equipment (stomach upsets are a big issue among travellers to Egypt). If he or she won’t, you should be suspicious and exercise extreme caution when eating salad from the buffet or ordering ice
in drinks.
There will always be some basic safety and life-saving equipment on board, but the crew are not obliged to carry out lifeboat drill as they are on an ocean-going vessel.
When it comes to fire precautions, the age of the vessel does count as well; most older vessels don’t have sprinkler systems, for example. On some rivers, cruises are seasonal; so, too, are the staff, which means that safety training may not be as good as it should be. Always familiarise yourself with the nearest exit and the location of life jackets as a precaution.
There have, fortunately, been very few incidents involving river cruise vessels in trouble over the past ten years. The good thing is that you’re never too far from a river bank.
Perhaps the most suspect when it comes to safety are the older vessels on the Nile, where safety standards are extremely basic. Navigation is by vision only, in daylight hours, with boats operating a system of flashes of a mirror, toots on the horn or, in an emergency, radio contact, to avoid traffic coming in the opposite direction. There are no depth sounders on board. If you visit the bridge on a Nile cruiser, you’ll be astonished at how basic it is. In Europe, most vessels operating on the Danube adhere to strict safety standards set by the German and Swiss classification societies. Unless the captain holds licences for the various sections of the Danube, there may be a river pilot aboard for most of the time. Radar and echo sounders form part of the navigation equipment.
Security has become an issue on board river and ocean-going vessels since the terrorist attacks of 9/11. While ocean-going ships will scan luggage and operate a swipe-card system with photo ID for everyone boarding the ship, river cruise operators are a lot more relaxed. Luggage is not X-rayed. Photo ID?cards are not usually issued. The newer river cruise vessels do have entryway doors that are secured by a code that can be changed during the cruise, or, indeed, at any time. Many of the older vessels (typically those built before 2000) do not have entryway doors with codes, although all vessels normally have one member of the crew on gangway access duty in all ports and destinations.
In Egypt, the situation is different. People and bags are scanned before boarding any vessel and, indeed, before entering any hotel or temple ashore. There are armed guards everywhere – on the bridge of every Nile cruiser, at major antiquities and temples, on tourist buses and generally patrolling the streets. Strangely, this is not intimidating; their presence is more benign and reassuring, and, despite the recent tragedies it has endured, Egypt is still a welcoming, relatively easy place in which to travel once you’ve learned to deal with the enthusiasm of the local traders.
Sailing times
In each destination, the vessel’s sailing time will be posted at the gangway (this is usually in the main lobby/reception desk). Note that river cruise vessels do not usually wait for individual passengers who are delayed. Don’t miss the boat! If you do, then you will have to catch up with it at the next port of call.
Smoking policy
In continental Europe, Russia and Egypt, a lot of people still smoke, and on a cruise of mixed nationalities there are likely to be smokers who will light up in the bar and possibly in the restaurant. Smoke can sometimes permeate the corridors of river cruisers, too. In general, aboard most vessels smoking is not permitted in any cabin, although this depends in part on the operator and, in part, on the mix of nationalities on board. People will still smoke on their private balconies.
If you feel really strongly about smoking, you’re best advised to look for a vessel marketed to North American passengers. These are the only ones to enforce a total smoking ban inside – people can still smoke on the open decks. Incidentally, Italy now has a complete ban on smoking in public places, which includes river cruise vessels.
Telephones and the internet
Most river cruise vessels (but not cruise barges) have a direct-dial satellite telephone system. You can call from your cabin to anywhere in the world, and calls are completed instantly. Satellite calls are incredibly expensive, though, and you would be better advised to take a cellphone along instead to stay in touch with home. There is a signal throughout most of Europe and all the way along the Nile from Aswan to Luxor, provided your phone is set up for roaming.
A few vessels have internet/email access, although only the very latest ones; the MS Amadagio, for example, brand new in 2006 and cruising the Danube, has internet access in every cabin. Several of the more luxurious Nile cruisers have a computer terminal in the library with internet access. On most European vessels, though, passengers will only be able to receive emails via the reception desk. Messages will be printed off and delivered to cabins. If internet access is important, it’s better to rely on cyber cafés along the way (almost all of the larger ports of call will have these).
What to wear
River cruise vessels tend to have a more relaxed attitude to dress code than ocean-going vessels, the more traditional of which have a dress code for dinner every night. The best bet is to go for smart-casual in the evenings, and practical during the day. Sturdy, comfortable footwear is essential for walking around medieval towns, with their cobbled streets.
On one evening, there is usually a special captain’s dinner, when it’s advisable to dress up a bit more, but no more formal than jacket and tie for men and cocktail dresses for women.
Sometimes there will be a fancy-dress evening. These are purely optional, but you’ll find, particularly on the Nile, where an Egyptian evening is inevitable, that people do make an effort.
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